125 Mayo Road; Edgewater, MD 21037
Log in to your Pet Portal®!
Home
Our Team
Tour
Services
Grooming
Forms
Pet Gallery
First Aid
Memorials
Fun Facts & Tips
Pet Links
Payment Options
Contact Us
Directions
Employment
About Pet Portals

Fun Facts & Tips

Download the fun facts and tips for printing:

Check out the National Pets Wellness Month site @ www.npwm.com to learn more about the following:

  • Wellness exam checklist
  • Pet aging chart
  • Do cats hide illnesses better than dogs
  • Fun facts about pets and more

BRUSHING TEETH: A HOME CARE GUIDE FOR PET OWNERS
The best time to brush a dog's teeth is after the evening meal when both you and your pet are relaxed. If your dog growls, bites, scratches, or shows any other signs of aggression during the procedure, stop immediately and consult your veterinarian for professional advice.

  1. Gently position the dog in a corner (of a sofa, chair, or room) so that he will be secure and more easily handled. Carefully lift the dog's lips to expose his teeth.

  2. Rub your finger over the dog's teeth and gums for a minute or so. This will get the dog used to having something in his mouth. It might be necessary to do this a couple of days before going on to the next step.

  3. Put a small amount of toothpaste specially formulated for pets on your finger and allow the pet to taste it.

  4. Slide a finger brush onto your index finger and put a small amount of toothpaste on the brush. Gently rub the brush over the dog's teeth and gums. If necessary, repeat this process in the next brushing session. Because finger brushes don't reach the gum line, they should be used for as short of a time as necessary.

  5. Apply a small amount of toothpaste to a bristle brush. Place the brush bristles at a 45° angle to the gum line. Move the brush gently in circular patterns over the dog's teeth. Start by brushing a few teeth. As the brushing sessions continue, slowly include more teeth. Teeth should also be brushed in a back and forth motion. Build up to about 30 seconds on each side of the dog's mouth.

Tips for Success:

  • Brush your dog's teeth at least two or three times per week.
  • Concentrate on the outside of the teeth.
  • Praise the dog frequently during the procedure.
  • If your dog tolerates only a brief brushing, don't be discouraged. Getting some toothpaste onto the teeth and gums is better than not brushing at all.

For Cat Owners

These basic steps can also be used to brush a cat's teeth. However, remember that cats can be more sensitive to new things. Other recommendations:

  • Take each step slowly and allow the cat to become familiar with what you are doing.
  • When using a toothbrush, use the smallest size available.
  • If the cat refuses to accept the toothbrush or finger brush, try using a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger with toothpaste on it or a cotton swab.

CARE OF RABBITS

The environment, handling, diet and medical problems that may affect pet rabbits are discussed in this leaflet section. If you have any questions, be sure to ask us to answer them for you.

Rabbits are relatively easy to care for and make friendly, intelligent and quiet house pets. There are over 60 breeds of domestic rabbits. Their average life span is 6 to 10 years, with a record of 15 years being reported. In general, the medium and larger breeds live longer than the dwarf varieties.

ENVIRONMENT

Rabbits can be housed in a metal wire cage with 1" X 1/2" square openings. Cages should be at least 24" X 24" X 18" high for large breeds. Solid floor material, such as towel, carpeting, or wood, is necessary to prevent the rabbit from developing sore hocks and to provide an area for resting. Newspaper can be used under the wire. Do not house rabbits in aquariums or solid wall cages because the lack of sufficient air circulation can cause your pet to develop respiratory diseases.

LITTER BOX

Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. Initially, the pet should be kept in a small area (either a cage or a blocked off section of a room), and a litter box placed in a corner of the area that the rabbit has already used for elimination. Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so that your pet can get in and out easily. Pine shavings or a compressed paper product make good litter material. It is helpful to put some previous droppings in the box. You can reward your pet rabbit with a treat food (such as fruit or whole grain bread), whenever it has used the litter box successfully.

TEMPERATURE

Rabbits kept indoors should be kept in the coolest and least humid area of the house, as rabbits in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation tend to develop various respiratory infections. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. If your rabbit must be kept in the basement, use a dehumidifier and fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation.

The optimum room temperature range for rabbits is 60° to 70°F. If the animal's environmental temperature rises above 75°F, heat stroke is a very real concern. If air conditioning is not available, leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in your pet's cage so that it may cool itself near or against the container.

If your pet rabbit is being kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the wind and the sun. During the winter, straw bedding is recommended for the sheltered area of the cage for insulation. Be sure the outdoor pet's water bowl is changed daily, as rabbits will dehydrate if their water is frozen and they cannot get sufficient amounts of liquid into their system.

HANDLING

When picking up your pet always support its hindquarters. This will prevent serious spinal injuries. The rabbit's backbone is fragile and can easily snap if the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal gives a strong kick. Never pick up a rabbit by its ears.

The most popular method of picking up a rabbit is to place one hand under the chest and the other hand under the hind end. An alternate way to hold the front half of the body is by the scruff of the neck, supporting the rear end with your other hand. This hold is not painful to the rabbit and may work best on animals that are not used to being handled. To carry the rabbit, continue to support the hindquarters and hold it vertically against your body or with the head tucked under your arm.

DIET

Rabbit Pellets

Good quality rabbit pellets may be offered daily in limited quantities. Uncontrolled feeding of a pelted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease. If pellets are to be fed, be sure that they are high in fiber (18% or more), and that you buy them in small quantities. Keep the pellets refrigerated in a cool and dry place to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.

Table 1 shows daily amounts of pellets to be fed to your pet. Do not refill the bowl, even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day. Overfeeding pellets can cause a number of health problems for your rabbit. For rabbits up to 8 months of age, however, pellets can be given free choice (you can refill their bowl as it is emptied), because these animals are still growing.

TABLE 1
Daily Amounts of Pellets to Feed Your Rabbit

Weight

2-4 lbs. bodyweight
5-7 lbs. bodyweight
8-10 lbs. bodyweight
11-15 lbs bodyweight

Amount

1/8 cup daily
1/4 cup daily
1/2 cup daily
3/4 cup daily

These food amounts are for the maintenance of the nonbreeding, mature house rabbit. If you intend to breed your pet, then daily pellet amounts should be increased by 1/4 cup during the breeding season. For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be offered free choice until the babies are weaned. After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels listed.

Hay

Loose, long strands of hay, as opposed to pressed cubes or chopped hay, are preferred. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion and the prevention of hairballs. Hay also contains proteins and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet.

Hay should be stored in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (don't keep it closed tightly in a plastic bag). Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a "fresh" smell.

Fresh Foods

Rabbits should be fed fresh vegetables and greens daily because vegetables in the diet prevent hairballs and other digestive upsets. If your pet is not used to getting fresh foods, begin feeding green leafy vegetables gradually, adding a new type of vegetable every 5 to 7 days. If the addition of any item leads to diarrhea or unformed stools in 24 to 48 hours, then remove it from the diet. Table 2 lists a variety of vegetables that you can feed your pet rabbit.

TABLE 2
Vegetables and Other Greens for Your Rabbit
Carrot tops and carrots
Kale
Escarole
Clover
Green Peppers
Basil
Raspberry leaves
Bok Choy
Beef tops
Collard Greens
Parsley
Cabbage
Brussel Sprouts
Peppermint leaves
Radicchio
Spinach
Pea Pods (the flat edible kind)
Broccoli (especially broccoli leaves)
Dandelion greens and flowers (be sure these are free from pesticides)
Romaine lettuce (do not feed light colored leaf lettuces, such as iceberg)

Treats

Treats can be given in small amounts on a daily basis. Treat foods your rabbit may like include strawberries, papayas, pineapples chunks, apples, pears, melon slices, banana slices, raspberries, peaches, pears dried fruits, or dried whole grain bread. Check with your veterinarian on the exact amount of treat foods you should allow your pet to have.

Water 

A container of water should always be available to your pet and should be changed daily. A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease. The container can be either a water bottle or heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it cannot be tipped over. Do not put medications in the water because your pet may not drink it if the taste or color is altered.

Night Droppings 

Night droppings are an essential part of your pet rabbit's nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually some of the droppings in the process.

These cecal pellets, as they are called, are softer, greener and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry, round waste droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will eat them accordingly. Cecal pellets come from the cecum, where fermentation of food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients necessary for your pet to maintain good health. After eating these droppings, the material is redigested and the body extracts all the necessary nutrients. While this habit may appear distasteful, it is normal for rabbits, and is an important part of their diet.

Medical Problems

Female Reproductive System

The leading cause of death in the female rabbit is adenocarcinoma of the uterus. Unfortunately, this disease is usually fatal because by the time it is diagnosed, it has often spread to other areas of the body. Having your female pet spayed between 6 months and 2 years of age prevents adenocarcinoma of the uterus.

Intact Male Behavior Problems 

Some male rabbits, especially the dwarf varieties, may become extremely aggressive when they reach sexual maturity. Excessive biting and spraying of urine outside of the regular litter box area is the most common signs of this aggression. The intact male's urine may develop a strong and unpleasant odor due to the presence of male hormones. Also, the intact male does not groom himself as well as neutered males or females. Neutering the male is the best solution to these behavioral problems. This procedure can be performed any time after 5 months of age.

Overgrown Teeth

Rabbits' teeth grow constantly throughout their life. If the teeth are not aligned up properly, then they do not get worn down, resulting in overgrowth. Overgrown teeth can cause mouth infections, ulcerations of the lips or tongue, and inability to pick up and eat food. The most common treatment for overgrown teeth is to have the teeth cut periodically (every 3-8 weeks). This procedure is performed by the veterinarian using a special teeth-trimming instrument. Overgrown front teeth can be removed surgically. Rabbits are able to eat normally after the removal of these teeth, and this will eliminate the trimming procedure.

Loss of Appetite 

The most common reason for a rabbit's loss of appetite is a diet low in fiber and high in calories. This combination can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease, sluggish movement of the intestinal tract, and accumulation of hair and food in the stomach (hairballs). Your veterinarian should investigate loss of appetite within 48 hours, even if the pet is acting normally otherwise.

Pasteurellosis

Many rabbits harbor bacteria in their sinuses called Multocida. These bacteria will not cause a problem for a rabbit with a healthy immune system. Under certain stressful situations, however, these bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause a disease known as pasteurellosis.

Pasteurellosis can affect the upper respiratory tract, uterus, skin, bladder, tear ducts, middle ear, or lungs. If you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal area, or if you notice a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing, consult your veterinarian at once.

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is common in the rabbit; it is a very serious condition that should be brought to your veterinarian's attention immediately. Some gastrointestinal infections that result in diarrhea can be fatal in less than 24 hours. Actual diarrhea should not be confused with the cecal pellets rabbits pass.

Preventive Medicine

The best method to avoid many medical problems is to schedule an annual veterinary visit for your pet rabbit. During this examination, your veterinarian will weigh your pet and check all areas for the rabbit's body. Currently there are no vaccinations for rabbits. We also recommend that all rabbits get papain tablets (available from a health food store) – 1/2 tablet twice weekly for rabbits under 10 lbs., and 1 tablet twice weekly for rabbits over 10 lbs. This preparation can help to prevent hairballs.


Ear Cleaning

We recommend that you clean your dogs ears on a regular basis especially after swimming. You should use a ear cleaner that we provide or mix your own. The homemade mixture consist of equal parts alcohol, water, and vinegar.

How to clean ears:

  1. Fill their ear canal with cleaner.
  2. Massage their ear to loosen the debris.
  3. Reach into the canal with a tissue to wipe it clean and dry. You can put your finger in as far as you can go, this will not hurt you dog's ear. You may need more than one tissue. Don't forget to clean out the crevices of the outer ear.
You should clean you dog's ears once to twice a week or each time they go swimming. If you have been cleaning your dog's ear regularly and they are still waxy and have an odor we suggest that you make an appointment to have them examined.

Poison Prevention Tips

The animal poison control says that the five most dangerous plants are:

  1. Lilies are highly toxic to cats and can cause severe kidney damage within 24 to 48 hours.
  2. Azaleas can produce vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness, and central nervous system depression.
  3. Oleander can cause gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal cardiac function, low body temperature and possible death.
  4. Sago Palms can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures and liver failure. The plants seeds appear to contain the largest amount of toxins.
  5. Castor Bean Plants contain ricin, a highly toxic protein, that can cause severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, weakness and loss of appetite.
If you suspect your pet has consumed a toxic plant or substance you should contact you veterinarian immediately. Or you can call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. A consultation fee will be charged to the caller's telephone bill.

Preventing Heatstroke

Heatstroke can have deadly consequences. The best way to keep your pet safe during the hot summer months is to avoid circumstances that can lead to heatstroke. The following information can help you recognize the signs of heatstroke and take action if you suspect this condition in your pet. Remember, prevention is the best way to keep your pet safe!

Pets Prone to Heatstroke

  • Flat-faced breeds of dogs (e.g., pugs, boxers, Lhasa apsos, shih tzus, Boston terriers, Pekingese) and cats (e.g., Persians)
  • Young puppies and kittens
  • Older pets
  • Overweight pets

Signs

  • Temperature > 104.5° F
  • Bright red or pale gray, tacky gums
  • Sticky drool
  • Rapid panting
  • Weakness
  • Muscle incoordination
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Rapid heart rate
  • Collapse
  • Shock
  • Seizures

What to Do If You Suspect Your Pet Has Heatstroke

  • Try to cool the animal by either submersing him in cool water or placing cool, wet towels on the abdomen and groin (these areas have a large blood supply). Do NOT use extremely cold water or ice as they will hinder cooling.
  • Contact your veterinarian immediately.

Tips for Prevention

  • Exercise your pet in the early morning or late evening; avoid midday activities.
  • Never leave your pet in a closed vehicle -- even for a few minutes.
  • Take special care of any pets that are kept outdoors, including rabbits. Make sure outdoor pets have access to cool shelter and plenty of water.
  • Consider a wading pool for outside dogs; the water can be kept cool by filling a water jug or plastic soda bottle with water, freezing it, and floating it in the pool. Make sure that the pool is not too deep for the dog.
  • Place a frozen water bottle inside your rabbit's cage.
  • Apply SPF 15 sunscreen on tender areas on dogs with light pigment or thin hair; avoid zinc based products in case the animal licks it.
  • Encourage liquid and calorie intake by mixing one jar of meat baby food with one jar of water. Freeze into ice cube treats for your pet.
  • Watch out for asphalt because it can cause second-degree burns on

A Veterinary Technician® Client Handout
©2004 Veterinary Learning Systems


Understanding Your Pet's Bloodwork

“CBC, chem. Seven, stat!” This may sound familiar if you watch popular such television dramas ER, Chicago Hope, or Emergency Vets. But do you know what the terms mean? Blood tests can help doctors determine causes of illnesses accurately, safely, and quickly and let us monitor the progress of medical treatments. To help you understand your pet's test results, this guide explains common tests. A checkmark in any box indicates a significant abnormal finding on your pet's blood work. If you have question, ask any staff member. We want you to understand our recommendations and be a partner in your pet's care. 

Complete Blood Count (CBC)
This is the most common blood test performed on pets and people. A CBC gives information on hydration status, anemia, infection, and blood's clotting ability, and the ability of the immune system to respond. This test is essential for pets with fevers, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, pale gums, or loss of appetite. If your pet needs surgery, a CBC can detect bleeding disorders or other unseen abnormalities.

  • HCT (hematocrit) measures the percentage of red blood cells to detect anemia and dehydration.
  • Hb and MCHC (hemoglobin and mean corpuscular hemoglobin concentration) are the oxygen-carrying pigments of red blood cells.
  • WBC (white blood cell count) measures the body's immune system cells. Increases or decreases indicate certain diseases or infections.
  • GRANS and L/M (granulocytes and lymphocytes/monocytes) are specific types of white blood cells.
  • EOS (eosinophils) is a specific type of white blood cells that may indicate allergic or parasitic conditions.
  • PLT (platelets) measures the cells that form blood clots.
  • RETIC (reticulocytes) are immature red blood cells. High levels indicate regenerative anemia.
  • FIBR (fibrinogen) is an important clotting factor. High levels may indicate a dog is 30 to 40 days pregnant.

Blood Chemistries
These common blood serum tests evaluate organ function, electrolyte status, hormone levels and more. They are important in evaluating older pets, pets with vomiting and diarrhea or toxin exposure, pets receiving long-term medications, and health before anesthesia. A routine Mini-Profile includes: ALKP, ALT, BUN, CREA, GLU, and TP.

  • ALB (albumin) is a serum protein that helps evaluate hydration status, hemorrhage, and intestinal, liver and kidney disease.
  • ALKP (alkaline phosphatase) elevations may indicate liver damage, Cushing's disease, and active bone growth in young pets. This test is especially significant in cats.
  • ALT (alanine aminotransferase) is a sensitive indicator of active liver damage but does not indicate the cause.
  • AMYL (amylase) elevations show pancreatitis or kidney disease.
  • AST (aspartate aminotransferase) increases may indicate liver, heart or skeletal muscle damage.
  • BUN (blood urea nitrogen) indicates kidney function. AN increased blood level is called azotemia and can be caused by kidney, liver, and heart disease, urethral obstruction, shock and dehydration.
  • Ca (calcium) deviations can indicate a variety of diseases. Tumors, hyperparathyroidism, kidney disease, and low albumin are just a few of the conditions that alter serum calcium.
  • CHOL (Cholesterol) is used to supplement diagnosis of hypothyroidism, liver disease, Cushing's disease, and diabetes mellitus.
  • Cl (chloride) is an electrolyte often lost with vomiting and Addison's disease. Elevations often indicate dehydration.
  • Cortisol is a hormone that is measured in tests for Cushing's disease. (The low dose dexamethasone suppression test) and Addison's disease (ACTH stimulation test)
  • CREA (creatinine) reveals kidney function. This test helps distinguish between kidney and non-kidney causes of elevated BUN.
  • GGT (gamma glutamyl transferase) is an enzyme that indicates liver disease or corticosteroid excess.
  • GLOB (globulin) is a blood protein that often increases with chronic inflammation and certain disease states.
  • GLU (glucose) is a blood sugar. Elevated levels may indicate diabetes mellitus. Low levels can cause collapse, seizures or coma.
  • K (potassium) is an electrolyte lost with vomiting, diarrhea, or excessive urination. Increased levels may indicate kidney failure, Addison's disease, dehydration, and urethral obstruction. High levels can lead to cardiac arrest.
  • LIP (lipase) is an enzyme that may indicate pancreatitis.
  • Na (sodium) is an electrolyte lost with vomiting, diarrhea, and kidney and Addison's disease. This test helps indicate hydration status.
  • PHOS (phosphorous) elevations are often associated with kidney disease, hyperthyroidism and bleeding disorders.
  • TBIL (total bilirubin) elevations may indicate liver or hemolytic disease. This test helps identify bile duct problems and certain types of anemia.
  • TP (total protein) indicates hydration status and provides additional information about the liver, kidney and infectious diseases.
  • T4 (thyroxine) is a thyroid hormone. Decreased levels often signal hypothyroidism in dogs, while high levels indicate hyperthyroidism in cats.

Winter: How to Protect your Pets?

Keeping Them Warm
  • Pets should be brought inside when the temperature is below freezing. Cats should stay inside throughout the season.
  • Very young pets, senior pets and brachycephalic breeds (flat faced animals) are more susceptible to cold temperatures.
  • If you have a short-coated pet, a sweater can help keep them warm when they venture out.
  • Even if your dog has a warm doghouse outside you should bring them in if the temperature drops below 5F.
  • Booties can help keep your dogs feet warm and prevent ice from forming between their toes. They can also protect them from ice melts. If you don't use booties you should keep the hair between your dogs toe trimmed to prevent ice from forming there.

How to Make a Cozy Doghouse

  • The doghouse should be dry and draft free.
  • The interior should be large enough so that your dog can stand, turn around and lie down comfortably. It should not be too big because body heat can escape.
  • The inside should be covered with straw to help hold heat. The hay also does not freeze if water is spilled.
  • The floor should be raised a few inches off the ground.
  • The doorway should be covered by a waterproof material and also face away from the wind.
  • Straw bales should be stacked on the outside walls to help protect the house from the wind.
  • You should put their water in plastic bowls so that your dogs tongue does not stick to the bowl. Also you should check your dog's water twice a day to make sure it is not frozen.
Hypothermia
  • Signs of hypothermia are shivering, slow and shallow breathing, and lethargy.
  • If you think that your pet is suffering from hypothermia bring them to the veterinary hospital immediately.
  • If you want to try and warm up your pet by yourself you should only warm the stomach and chest areas. Warming legs may cause them to go into shock.
Frostbite
  • The most common areas of frostbite are paws, ears, tails, and genitals.
  • Young animals, poorly nourished animals, geriatric animals, and those who have underlying problems are more at risk.
  • At first, the area will be pale, cold and blue. Later it will be red, swollen and very painful.
  • Animals with frostbite should be brought in to the hospital.
Ice Melts
  • Your pet usually comes in contact with ice melts when they lick them off their feet or fur.
  • Some signs that your pet may have ingested ice melts are excess salivation and mild gastrointestinal upset. If they ingest a large amount you may see them drinking a lot of water, and breathing and heart problems. They could even die.
  • To prevent this you should wipe off your pet's feet and fur when they come in from outside.
  • Good alternatives to salts are sand, cat litter, and animal safe ice melts.
  • If you know that your pet is going to come in contact with ice melts you can spray the bottom of their feet with nonstick cooking spay or put booties on their feet.

Antifreeze

  • If you suspect that your pet has ingested antifreeze BRING THEM IN IMMEDIATELY!!! A single lick can be deadly.
  • Antifreeze has a very sweet taste so it attracts animals.
  • You should keep all containers tightly sealed and out of reach.
  • You should have leaky cars fixed.
  • Rinse all areas where antifreeze has been thoroughly with water.
Hazards of the holidays
  • Poisonous Plants - Christmas cactus, Mistletoe, and Holly. (Poinsettias are not poisonous.)
  • Dangerous Decorations - tinsel, string, ribbon, tree lights, breakable ornaments, metal ornament hooks, and artificial snow.
  • Toxic Treats - chocolate, bread dough, liquid potpourri, alcohol, avocado, coffee, garlic, grapes, raisins, hops, macadamia nuts, moldy or spoiled food, onions, salt, Christmas leftovers, and bones.
  • Hazardous Gifts - Batteries and small toys.

Home | Our Team | Tour | Services | Grooming | Forms
Pet Gallery | First Aid | Memorials | Fun Facts & Tips | Pet Links
Payment Options | Contact Us | Directions | Employment | About Pet Portals
Powered by VetInsite.